Automotive Forums. Clunking noise after new struts installed. The guy at the shop said said that since the suspension is now tighter again, I was going to hear some creaks for a couple days until they are broken in. That's okay, I can deal with that.
I turned right around and drove back and told him that it's more than just a "creak," and it just doesn't seem right. Again he said that they heard it when test driving it and things are tight and might need a break in period. If it didn't go away, then I could bring it back and they'll grease up the bushings or something like that.
Now while the guys at this shop do great work and I trust them, this just doesn't seem right. Are they feeding me a line, or does this clunking sound normal for new struts on an old car? I've heard about loose strut plates but don't know if that's part of the strut assembly. If anyone could offer any thoughts I'd appreciate it. Thanks Adam. Welcome to AF. There is no reason you should hear a clunk. If you didn't replace the upper mounts when you replaced the struts, that's probably your noise issue.
There is a bearing in the upper mount that the strut pivots on, and they will grind when bad, and the rubber parts of the strut mount wear with age and can cause a clunk noise. The bushing in the lower control arm that the bolt runs through vertically is the one that normally wears out.
Thanks richtazz! I will bring the upper mounts to their attention. It does seem like the clunk is coming from a point higher in wheel well. Unfortunately I can't do it til Monday. Would the fact that I never heard the noise before they did their work rule out the control arm bushings and stabilizer bar or could this have surfaced because of their work? You're welcome. I would say since the noise wasn't there before, then the strut mounts are a pretty good bet.
You were absolutely correct. It was the strut mounts. Although they weren't bad I opened the hood and found them both to real loose on the upper side of the wheel well where they bolt on. I tried tightening them myself, but the just kept turning and turning and wouldn't tighten, so I took it back to the shop and they used their impact wrench and voila!
Thanks for the tip!Nicholas Junior Member. I had my friend of mine who is a mechanic change my struts out this weekend. I had clunking noises from the right strut Toyota and also a tire place said I needed new struts.
So I got them replaced now both sides are clunking see the YouTube video. Tips ideas? How many miles on the odometer? Did your friend replace the top strut mount on both sides? That is a wear part because it has to pivot as the front suspension moves up and down. Who is the manufacturer of the replacement struts? Does your friend have an opinion about what is loose?
If not, I suggest you check the front sway bar rubber bushings which may be worn. He said he didn't replace the mount I wonder if it's that ugh I will just take it to Toyota of Des Moines and see what they say. Hopefully it's just a cheap fix they can do right there while I am waiting in the waiting room. If the noise is getting worse, not better, that is certainly not reassuring. Probably a good idea to have your local dealer check out the front suspension to see what the problem is.
Thanks everyone! I am having him work on it Thursday again I took it to Toyota they were a pain you know what they suck now since they moved to the new Grimes location. So while your friend is at it, I hope that he has also replaced the upper and lower spring insulators.
See my post here for a full list of the required parts part numbers may vary by model year for the struts. Thanks you all! It was the strut mounts replaced those and ride is so much better! Good for another time It still drives like it was new. You must log in or sign up to post here. Show Ignored Content. Similar Threads - Clunking noises Strut.
Replies: 9 Views: 2, Lots of highway wind noise and you can feel a mild clunk when the engine kicks on drewbabichJan 22,in forum: Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting.
Replies: 6 Views: 1, Replies: 2 Views: Replies: 4 Views: 3, KJP Jul 28, And there are few vehicle components that give off more physical warning signs that service is needed than shocks and struts. Here are four things to watch for when test driving a vehicle that comes in with a ride complaint and what you can tell your customers to watch for that point to necessary shock and strut replacement.
Coil springs are responsible for dampening the transfer of energy when a vehicle drives over bumps, potholes and uneven roads. When these components are stuck, damaged or loose, the tires lose contact with the road as the car is driven, resulting in a bumpy, uncomfortable ride.
What they will feel is how worn or damaged shocks and struts impact ride comfort. Your job is to identify the problem and explain how new shocks and struts can restore their ride to like-new performance.
Shocks and struts help keep the vehicle stable during acceleration and braking. The customer may think that new shocks and struts will simply make their ride smoother, but the truth is that new shocks and struts can do a whole lot more. New shocks and struts can make a vehicle corner and brake like when it was new. This can give them extra stopping distance, better control, and more confidence in emergency situations. If the shocks are starting to go bad, the body will feel like it is leaning into the turn — even on slight turns.
Again, this can be a safety issue that requires immediate action since it can impact braking and steering effectiveness. Over 50, miles, the dampening capabilities of a shock or strut will degrade to the point where it can impact ride and handling, but the driver may not notice since the loss of functionality happens gradually.
While your customer may have become accustomed to body lean as a normal part of their driving experience, your fresh perspective can reveal just how bad their shocks and struts have become. This is why a test drive is critical to the inspection process.
One of the telltale signs of a suspension system that requires service is unusual noise. As shocks and bushings wear, they lose their ability to properly support the strut. The result is that the strut can bottom out. When the strut bottoms out, the metal-to-metal contact can cause a knocking sound that emanates from the front or rear wheels. Tire cupping, or scalloping, can be another cause of suspension-related noise.
When shock absorbers go bad and cause the tire to recoil faster, there can be patterns of wear that alternate like a series of peaks and valleys. These variations in tire tread lead to a bouncing noise that can be detected during a test drive. Even under normal conditions on a smooth road, shocks stroke an average of 1, times for every mile traveled.
This is why shock and strut wear is common. Shocks and struts are simple devices that dampen the movement of springs, suspension and vehicle pitch. For the most part, suspension works best with smooth weight transfers and the suspension is not compressed on the bump stops. As a vehicle brakes, accelerates, or corners, weight is transferred and the attitude changes.
This can be helpful…. Home Technical Resources Suspension and Chassis. Related Information. The Effects of Shock and Strut Wear Even under normal conditions on a smooth road, shocks stroke an average of 1, times for every mile traveled. Read More.My husband replaced our front and rear brake pads and rotors a couple of months ago.
New struts, still a grinding sound. Sway bar bushing?
After the replacement there has been such a horrible grinding noise any time we brake, especially when we brake gradually. He took the front brake pads off and put anti seize lubricant on the back of the rotors and put more between the calipers and the brake pads. That stopped in for a couple days, and now the sound is back. We don't know if it is now just coming from the back or if it both the front and back. I don't want to ruin anything by letting this continue, plus it is extremely annoying.
Can you give us any other advice on what this grinding noise can be? Thank you! Hi there. Were there shims installed on the old pads? New shims on the new pads? Missing shims can create noise while braking which is why the antiseize worked for a short time.
Usually, the lowest priced pads are the noisiest. The antisieze that he installed is not recommended to be put on brake components as the high temperatures of these parts can cause the lubricant to run and contaminate the pads and rotors. There are specifically designed brake pad shim lubricants designed to withstand these high temperatures; these are the only ones that should be used if needed.
I strongly suggest having a qualified technician perform an inspection to avoid replacing unnecessary parts and a possible safety concern. Your Mechanic has several available technicians that can assist you with a brakes are making a noise inspection. Q: Horrible grinding sound after recently replaced front and back brakes and rotors.
My car has miles. My car has an automatic transmission. Norman Cremeans Automotive Mechanic. Thank Norman. Was this answer helpful? Thank you for your feedback! Sorry about that. Why wasn't this information helpful?
Recommended Services. The statements expressed above are only for informational purposes and should be independently verified.Allpar Home News Forums. Help Repairs Part sources Resources. News News News forum Upcoming cars Test drives. Forums Stories Car shows Clubs Facebook. Allpar Forums.
Sign of a bad strut (metal grinding while turning at low speeds)?
New struts and its still making noise, help! Brenda Member. Joined: Dec 22, Messages: 48 Likes: My was making a few different noises in the front end, and of course when I took someone from the place it wouldn't really replicate the noises.
Both front struts and all that goes with it where replaced last week. Also about a year ago I had the lower control arms and sway bar bushings done.
Q: Horrible grinding sound after recently replaced front and back brakes and rotors.
It is still making this weird noise sometimes when I go over the smallest bump and it also makes the noise just driving along. It just sound like something is loose in the front end, it comes from both sides and the middle of the front of the car on a random basis. Could it be motor mounts? It is making me crazy and I really don't feel safe driving it with this noise. It has only 72, miles on it and I've taken very good care of it, it is just this random "whugh whugh" noise that is loud and making me nuts.
Soon after I noticed a slight "warble" coming from one of the rear wheels. Update: I was in the waiting room while the work was being performed so I'm fairly certain the car didn't fall off the lift or anything like that. And the mechanic in question was not a new hire. I thought maybe the tire was misbalanced or the alignment wasn't quite right, so I mentioned it when I next took the vehicle in to have the oil changed. They're telling me the noise is from a bad bearing.
But it begs the question, why did the noise start after replacing the tire? Put another way, why didn't I hear any noise from the bad bearing before I had the tires replaced? And several co-workers have since shared similar experiences at different shops. Or is it possible that before the tire replacement the old tire was somehow "masking" the problem and how?
Or is this just a coincidence? I should also note that the shop in question is one which I've used for a number of years. The owner sold the business years ago because he could no longer afford health care for his employees; the staff has mostly remained the same other than normal turnoverbut I don't trust the new management nearly as much as the former owner.
I've had this issue with cars fixed at my past shops. The old tires would mask the sound of the wheel bearing starting to go bad. New tires would suddenly make the sound stand out. Old tires can also affect the wheel bearing if their wear is uneven. They could put uneven pressure on the bearing as the tire rotates. There is a slight slight slight chance that they might have warped the hub by over-torquing the wheel nuts. But this is very unlikely and lugs tend to break off before this happens.
Go ahead and replace the bearing and move on. This is a safety issue. Afterwards, ask around and find a mechanic you can trust. It might not be the tires so much as the alignment. If the bearing was worn but had "gotten settled" in a particular orientation, it might not have been noisy.
Then you changed the alignment and started stressing it slightly differently, and now it's gotten loud. I wouldn't be too quick to blame the mechanic. This is a bit of a difficult question to answer over the internet because none of us can physically be there to observe the symptoms you're describing.
However though, cars are just like any other man made functional device used on a daily basis. You could go in for an oil change and your piston rod bearing could fail. Is this the lube shop's fault? There is no way to tell unless you're a skilled technician that can find scientific evidence.
Your statements are anecdotal. I can tell you this from personal experience. I've seen guys handle tires rough and sometimes when new management gets involved shops hire people out of desperation and they aren't always skilled. I do know, that van had some wheel bearing issues and a few other problems with CV axles.Worried about potential repair costs?
An extended warranty can provide peace of mind. See our lemon odds and nada odds page to see vehicles with no repairs or vehicles with more than three repairs. To see how frequently Mazda Mazda3 problems occur, check out our car reliability stats. All years. Mazda Mazda3 repairs by problem area. Mazda Mazda3 suspension repair cost distribution. See most expensive repairs Worried about potential repair costs?
Chart based on repair trips. The repair cost chart excludes repairs made under warranty, do-it-yourself repairs, and repair trips that include maintenance. Dealership acknowledged the issue and fixed the suspension height and made sure the steering wheel stayed true and center. During cold weather the front end made a loud creaking noise over every bump Since would only occur when cold they kept it until the squeak occurred. They replaced some bushings and did a TSB modification to the passenger side and drivers side.
However after having the car a couple days the car had to be taken back to dealer due a new noise from the front end that sounded like grinding or creaking noise.
The dealer said the had to re-torque some loose suspension components and was very vague. The car drives fine and I still love it but the steering wheel is now not completely straight.
Fixed in production in later cars, retroactive fit available for owners who are complain-y like I am. This was NOT a safety issue. Merely a noise thing, same as 1st repair, for a picky owner.
Steering column was replaced. New link kit was intalled. The dealer replaced a suspension strut on the front left and the problem went away. Most of the time in the shop was spent waiting on parts to be delivered. Replaced top of strut tower. Replaced both struts, both strut bearings, reset suspension components. Installed service bulletin for strut noise. They took it out for another test drive and while it was on the rack doing an oil change said they couldn't find anything.
The mechanic said that all Mazda 3's have this suspension clicking over low speed bumps. This seem's odd since the noises only starting at the end of the third year. I guess I could suggested that the mechanic try a new one out and see if it makes the noise. Hardly reassuring but may have to live with it until something falls off.
Popping noise from drivers side when reversing and turning sharply to the right.